The Kratky hydroponic lettuce experiments are moving along just fine! On the right side of the photo we can see the earliest batch is progressing as planned. Note the beautifully white root system developing in the nutrient rich water, along with the air gap that is forming as the liquid evaporates or is consumed by the young lettuce plant.
You can see the rest of the lettuce plants started from seed at the same time as the plant where we show the root system, and compare the leaf growth relative to the younger lettuce plants started from seed on 1/13/19. The different in growth over those extra couple of weeks is notable.
What if we could just start a half dozen lettuce plants from seed every couple of weeks and have an endless supply of low-work, low-maintenance lettuce for personal consumption? I think we can!
Kratky Lettuce Set-Up 2019
Can I really have a steady supply of fresh lettuce with minimal work and very minimal maintenance? I hope so! What’s the idea? Kratky!! This is a form of hydroponics that doesn’t require water movement or an air-stone. This is reputed to be a “set it and forget it” system. What did I do to get this set up?
First, I planted some lettuce seeds into rockwool. Seeds are super cheap, probably less than a penny per seed at the most. And the rockwool is reasonably priced, too, and can get shipped right to your home with Amazon pretty easily. Soak the rockwool until it is saturated, drop a seed or two into the hole in the rockwool, keep it wet with easy bottom watering and wait until you have a nice looking seedling.
Next we mix up the nutrient mixture. I just mixed up one gallon of nutrient solution which is made with one gallon of water (lettuce is pretty forgiving, but ideally we want the pH of the water to be below 7), 1 gram of Epsom Salts, 2 grams of 4-18-28 fertilizer, and 2 grams of 15.5-0-0 Calcium Nitrate. Yes I felt very odd measuring out grams of white powder on a food scale, but this is how we do it.
Next I set a net-cup into a mason jar, or I like to repurpose my glass peanut butter jars (don’t eat the peanut butter that has all that sugar in it that comes in plastic containers … peanut butter should have two ingredients, peanuts and salt). Pour the nutrient solution so it fills the container to a level that is just 1/4″-1/2″ above the bottom of the net-cup. Then we take a section of the rockwool that has the seedling in it and hold it in the net-cup while filling in the cup with hydroponic clay pebbles like you see below.
Lastly, we wrap the jar in tinfoil or a paper sleeve to keep the light out of the water. We don’t want algae growing in there using up the oxygen for the lettuce. We set those jars under a grow light and wait the 4-6 weeks to get a full lettuce plant. Sure, we may want to peek in on the kratky set-up to see how the roots are developing and such, but all-in-all this is supposed to be a hands off grow method.
Taking the Swiss Chard out of the Aquaponic Bed
This swiss chard plant was a huge success. There have been many pounds worth of swiss chard harvested from here. Unfortunately our earthworms were the main benefactor as we found we didn’t eat it often enough to keep it in the aquaponic grow bed. Also unfortunately, our two year old oscar fish who was powering our aquaponic grow beds with nutrients died a while back, and Crackle, the replacement fish is still quite small. We have a green pepper plant that is starting to bare fruit, but the leaves are yellowing which is most likely from lack of nutrients. Therefore these two main factors made me reach the conclusion that this mature swiss chard plant must come out.
Can you believe the size of this stalk/root system?!
Dehydrated Kale – Super Food Storage
This year’s garden has produced an abundance of kale for us. The deer have been eating the sweeter things in our Square Foot Garden, like the tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers. Because the deer have started to nibble on the kale now as well, I decided it was time to harvest about a half a paper grocery bag full of kale and prepare it for long term storage.
The first step I took was to blanch the kale leaves for less than 10 seconds in boiling water. Patting the wet leaves with a towel will remove much of the moisture and make the dehydration process go quicker. Set at 95 degrees Fahrenheit, the kale was left overnight for dehydrating. We set the temperature this low in order to preserve as many of the nutrients as possible.
Once dried, the kale is packaged gently into this half gallon mason jar and then we use the mason jar attachment to the Food Saver to remove the air from the jar. This will increase the storage life of the kale to be used in soups during the winter months.
Nehemiah 13:13
In charge of the storehouses I appointed Shelemiah the priest, Zadok the scribe, and Pedaiah of the Levites, and in addition to them was Hanan the son of Zaccur, the son of Mattaniah; for they were considered reliable, and it was their task to distribute to their kinsmen.
Lettuce Seed Harvest
One seed produces hundreds. My God provides in abundance to feed His children. Through patience and wisdom, one can feed their family. Here we see what happens to the lettuce plant if we forgo eating it, and allow it to complete its life-cycle.
The main stem shoots up, aka bolting. Flowers develop, bloom and then turn into these seed clusters with their very own parachutes that they can use to ride the wind and spread their seed.
Rubbing the seed clusters between your fingers will separate them from the plant. The seeds and the chaff fall below, and we recommend working over a clean surface. Next we use a technique called winnowing to separate the seed from the chaff. Lightly blowing over the surface will clear the lighter chaff from the pile and the heavier seed stays in the tray. Continue to rub and lightly blow until the seeds have been cleaned of most if not all of the fluff chaff.
Finally, store the seeds in a cool dry place. I’ve heard it told that there is a “rule of 100” when it comes to storing seed. If the temperature plus the humidity level exceeds 100, then the seeds will not store properly. We keep these in an envelop in a cool, dry place, and have plenty of seed for the following growing season. He supplies us in abundance; Praise His Holy Name !!
Saving Radish Seeds
Last year we shared a picture of the radish we allowed to go to seed. Today we are harvesting those seeds and will share with you this experience. First, here is a look at the seed pods that grew from the radish.
First we removed the pods from the dried radish plant and discarded the largest stems and stalk.
The radish seeds are small, round, hard balls which are heavier than the dried pods that encase them. Next we need to liberate the seeds from the pods by crushing them. With this amount of seed pod, the quickest way was to gather them up in my hands and rub back and forth. I considered getting a meat tenderizer tool to crush them with, which I don’t think would have been a bad idea, but I had enough hand strength to crush them between my hands, or even between my fingers.
The smaller, heavier radish seeds are all inside this pile of pulverized pods. Now we need to separate the seed from the chaff. The easiest way I found to do this was to tip up the lid from the tote I was using as a working surface, gently work the chaff back and forth, and the round seeds would roll down the lid to the bottom. I could pull the chaff material back to the top and continue the process, liberating more seeds. Because the chaff is lighter than the seeds, I can now lift off seedless material from the top and set it aside. Also, I can use a technique called winnowing to remove additional chaff material from the pile by blowing gently on it. The lighter chaff will blow away from the top of the pile, leaving more material dense with seed below it.
Through this patient process of rolling, blowing and moving the chaff around, the vast majority of seeds collected will roll down to the bottom of the lid. Once the seed has been separated from the chaff, the next step is to store the seeds in a cool, dry location for future use.
And this is how we can turn one or two seeds into hundreds of seeds to use in the future. God is good.
It’s Cauliflower!
This one I thought was a failed experiment. We’ve been keeping two cauliflower plants, started from seed, under the LED lights for months now. Just yesterday when I was checking up on them, would you believe this is what I found?
Now things get a little more exciting!
Breakfast for Clare
This is what I whipped up at Clare’s request for breakfast. Two farm fresh eggs, a bit of water and several small pieces of cream cheese make the base of the omelette. A strip of cooked bacon cut up, two home grown cherry tomatoes diced up, a bit of sunflower microgreens minced up and shredded mild cheddar cheese comprise the filling. Topped with another sprinkle of shredded cheddar, a bit of radish microgreens and two more homegrown cherry tomatoes and there was enough to not only feed Clare, but also enough to feed her twin sister as well.
Testing the New Ebb and Flow Microgreens Bed
I’m not going to lie. I’m quite nervous and excited about this test. Four trays were seeded and stacked in darkness late on Monday. I was hoping they would be a bit further along before Friday when I placed them into the 4’x4′ ebb and flow grow bed for the automation testing.
Under two of the trays I have coconut coir mats and two of the trays I decided to place in the bed without the mats underneath. I’m hoping the coconut coir mats will act as a filter so preventing the majority of particulate mater from draining out through the water pump when the flood cycle is completed. Perhaps I should have washed the mats prior to placing them into the grow bed as these mats, when dry, seem to shed some debris. I’m also concerned with taking the water level too high on the flood cycle thinking a higher water level might induce more debris to fall from the small holes in the bottom of the trays.
The organic gardening soil might retain moisture better than standard hydroponic grow mediums, so I will certainly need to be observing this system closely an make adjustments. The goal of this system is to keep the microgreen growing process going even if I am unable, or unwilling, to tend to them for a few days (like being able to not go into the office on the weekends). Wish me luck!
James 1:2-3
Consider it all joy, my brethren, when you encounter various trials, knowing that the testing of your faith produces endurance.
Homemade Wheatgrass Powder
What does one do with an aging half tray of grown wheatgrass? Juice it, dehydrate it and keep it as a powder, of course! How much wheatgrass juice powder does a half of a 1020 tray yield? Take a look below:
If I do this again, I would want to do a much larger quantity. Scraping the thin, dried sheet from the dehydrating liquids tray was a little tougher than I thought it would be. In the thicker spots, it seemed to come off a bit better. Perhaps if I started with even more liquid, this scraping step would have gone smoother.
I was surprised at how quickly the liquid dehydrated. It was set for 105 degrees F in order to keep the temperature low enough to maximize the nutrition in the final powder form, and I was scraping it off the tray by lunch time.
Next step in this experiment … rehydrating it and ingesting the reconstituted wheatgrass juice.